Tag Archives: iraq

Wanna cookie?

17 Feb

I left Baghdad for a short trip to Al Asad, which appears to be only a short distance North-West as the crow flies. As the military flies, I had to travel all the way down to Kuwait and then back up again, which I was not too excited about. The good news is that I was in a C-17, which I find to be way more comfortable than a C-130 (no leaning back on someone else's back!).

The first leg of the trip was packed, and the entire cargo plane was filled with seats, which I had never seen before. I was relatively close to the front, and this was the view from my seat. Notice the little bubble shaped window up near the flight deck.

After we landed in Kuwait, they announced that anyone traveling to Al Asad should stay on the plane, and of all 1 million passengers, I was the only one. This worked out in my favor because as I waited, one of the crew members asked if I wanted to sit up with them in the flight deck. Of course I said yes, and they were great. I acted all shy and excited, and they asked if I wanted pictures of myself in the Captain's chair. They were really getting into it and took about 10 pics. Here's me and my mustachioed co-pilot.


I got to sit there for take-off and pretty much the entire flight. I wore headphones and could communicate with the crew. They let me wear night vision goggles and the amount of stars I saw was incredible!

They had to do a 'combat landing,' so they asked me to go sit in their little rest area right behind the cockpit. I sheepishly glanced through the porthole at the silly passengers that hide to ride in the cabin. Suckers! For those who don't know, a 'combat landing' is when the plane comes in quite high and then dives suddenly and quickly down to the runway. It's supposed to minimize the amount of time the plane is a target, so to speak. I've been through a couple that have felt dead up like that plane was crashing, but this one was quite mild in comparison.

Plus, while we were taxiing, one of the guys put some cookies in the oven, and as I was getting off the plane, he offered me a warm chocolate chip cookie. Seriously. Life's too good sometimes!

Read and post comments | Send to a friend

Baghdad – Day 1

4 Feb

The morning I after I arrived in Baghdad, the world seemed all fresh and new. The sun was shining and everywhere I looked there were palm trees and sidewalks!!! I couldn’t believe it. Stacey arranged a tour for me, and after 2 quick hours in the office, I was whisked away on a special tour of Camp Slayer, with absolutely no idea what to expect.


Our first stop was Uday’s house – Sadaam’s son. It had obviously been quite lovely at one time, but is now a pile of rubble. We got to wander around, climb on things, and take pictures at our leisure. A tour guide told us a few stories, but she was difficult to hear, and someone was translating her words loudly into Arabic for the small group of Iraqi military that were on the tour with us.

The next stop was the Victory over Iran palace. Sadaam built this palace and it was his main residence when in Baghdad. The archway was very ornately decorated, and framed in a ‘smiley face’ over the front door are helmets from Iranian soldiers. We did not get to go inside, as the palace is actually inhabited by US troops lucky enough to be billeted there.

Adjacent to the “Victory over Iran,” stands the “Victory over America” palace. Sadaam had not quite finished building this beauty when we decided to drop a couple of enormous bombs on it. Wrong name, perhaps?

The tour was quite interesting, and culminated with a treacherous hike up many unfinished staircases leading to a rooftop view overlooking the camp and city. The panorama was stunning, and my quick video only covers about a quarter of it, due to MEMORY CARD FULL ☹

All the palaces are completely surrounded by water, for which Sadaam apparently used 8 of the city’s 9 water pumps, leaving his people in desperate want. The water is spotted with little houses where his friends and relatives lived, or that were used for pleasure. Sadaam’s brothel is right next door to his palace, and a brothel for his friends is a stone’s throw across the lake. According to our tour guide, they believed there was ‘no sin on water.’

After viewing the impressive wreckage, we made a quick photo stop and the very last mural of Sadaam in Iraq, and then went to the Baath party house, which was bombed after George Bush gave his 24 hour to evacuate ultimatum. Apparently we almost got Sadaam there, but missed him by less than an hour. Instead, the remains of 250 people were found in the rubble of the theater room, and “Pretty Woman” was found inside of the projector.

Most of the building was rubble, but it’s loveliness could easily be imagined. The pool room was still intact, although the pool was apparently never filled. An old, dried blood stain suggested an alternate and more sinister purpose.

Overall, the tour was very interesting, and completely surreal. I just kept thinking, “how did I end up here!?” and feeling very, very grateful to be me!


Read and post comments | Send to a friend

Fly me to Baghdad

26 Jan

I was not sad about leaving COB Speicher. The fine, sooty, death dust and vast expanses of grey had become mind numbing. It was always freezing, and I was exhausted from the non-stop work. I was even happier when I discovered that traveling to Baghdad in a helicopter was a possibility.

The day I left, I spent the morning in a frantic state, assisting students, mailing boxes, and packing. CPT Pray took me to the passenger terminal and presented me with a coin and certificate that I’m sure I’ll cherish forever. What he failed to impart at that fateful moment, however, was any advice about helicopter flights, and I didn’t think to ask. All I’d asked someone a few days before was how long it would take to get there, and the answer was 40 minutes. No problem there!

Just as I sat down to relax, they announced the flight and told everyone to go outside for rollcall. Time was approximately 1800 hours. The called off our names and lined us up in order by destination. I’d guess there were 30 people or so. We then marched, single file onto the tarmac and were given no further instructions. Dwarfed by the Chinook in front of me, I started to get excited! As the crew members worked diligently to prepare the craft, I watched giddily, feeling those glorious jitters you can only get before a once in a lifetime opportunity comes along. While we started to load our gear up, I asked (well, screamed loudly over the engines) one of the crew to take my picture, which he was happy to do. My smiling face looks so naïve to me now, as I stand in front of that giant metal whale, about to get swallowed up and carried away in the sky.


We boarded the Chinook around 1900 and sat for 15 minutes or so before takeoff. I was seated on the edge of a red cargo net, attached on the side by only the ends. I hardly noticed the subtle lean that the slope of the net was causing me to affect. There was a small, round window right behind me, and I tried to look out as we took off. I couldn’t see anything, and I figured out why after a minute or two. We weren’t moving; just hovering above the flightline.

It’s important to remember that it was January, and it was freezing. Of all the advice I could have been given, the fact that the Chinook does not ever close its doors might have been the most humane. The chill I’d felt while waiting to board intensified and took hold like a lake slowly freezing over. The guy on my left, a British security contractor, was not even wearing a jacket, and made no effort to cover his hands. He sat with them calmly in his lap, and showed no signs of discomfort whatsoever. All the soldiers I could see were wearing all their warmest gear, to include gloves, hats, and neck gaiters pulled up over their faces. I was wearing a t-shirt and winter jacket, covered with my helmet and flak vest. Since I couldn’t get my hands under me with our sardine-like arrangement, I shoved my hands so far into coat that I think pretty sure my arms shrank, just a little.

But then we started to move! The Chinook made graceful, smooth movements as we cut through the crisp night air. Thanks to yoga, I was able to look out the window and take in the twinkling lights of the city below, topped off an expanse of stars so glorious, I completely forgot I was cold. I gazed out at the lights, interspersed with inky blackness, and considered my location.  I thought about my place in this world and watched the earth move below me, focusing on the lights.  Some were yellow, some white, some a soft orange. Some flickered, some moved, some disappeared just as you looked at them. POP POP POP POP POP! POP POP POP POP POP! The roaring sound of gunfire pulled me from my reverie. What was happening? I tried to make out what was going on, but no one moved, and it was too loud to speak, so I just let the excitement of gunpower take my fantasies to a whole new level. The whole experience of being huddled together with strangers on a mysterious mission in the pitch black interior of a ‘catfish’ seemed so romantic to me. We banked suddenly, and the cold air rushed back in. We were on the ground and people were exiting the back of the craft.

I was trapped in a seat near the cockpit, and since no one around me got up, I realized this was not my stop and waited patiently. The wind blew hard in my face, and I kept my squinty visage pointed to the right and waited for our next ascent. It took a while, and I noticed that my right foot was going numb from leaning over. My back and butt were  starting to ache, and the chill seemed to be going deeper and deeper. Our next leg of the trip passed by quickly as I didn’t realize how much longer I would have to endure it. I dozed and was ready for it to end.

But it didn’t. We landed two more times, and then flew for a long time. I was seriously uncomfortable at this point, and my bladder was reaching full capacity. During this seemingly infinite flight, and the darkness of the craft played tricks on my eyes and mind. I imagined that the shifting shapes of the people across from me, with only the whites of their eyes exposed, were villains from Star Wars. The mood seemed sinister. I shifted uncomfortably, but was unable to bring any relief to my foot or back. Then, after another sudden bank, we touched down and everyone was herded off and into an empty field with no information about what we were doing. We stood where they’d indicated with flashlights, and the wind from the propellers was so strong that the steely-eyed killer next to me even got out his jacket and put it on. I stretched, looked at the stars, and tried to think about anything besides my bladder or how freaking cold I was. At some point it became clear to me that we were refueling, and that this trip was not over.

The last two stops were miserable. All optimism crushed, I decided that helicopters were frozen skybusses from hell and that I never wanted to take one again. After 4 ½ hours, I arrived at Camp Victory disoriented, frozen, and having to pee worse than I’ve ever had to in my life. But with another box checked off of that great TO DO list of my life.

Read and post comments | Send to a friend

Psych Class and Learning to Fly

17 Jan

It's been an exciting couple of weeks. Our time on COB Speicher was a total success, and the Psych class finished with 39 students. They were so eager, and earnest, and leaving was pretty difficult.

As lovely as they were, the camp was starting to wear on me. It was a lot of work, with little down time, save for a few exceptions. The best one came in the form of my pilot friends, CJ and Raleigh, who I met in Tai Chi class. They came by at lunch time on a Friday, then asked what I had planned for the day. Of course the answer was "WORK," but they had other ideas and I went off with them for a tour of the air traffic control tower. It's an old Iraqi building with odd square architecture and very low ceilings. The military folks there explained to us how they track the planes and manage the airspace. Some of it was over my head, but it was still really interesting. And of course, the view from the top was amazing.

After that they took me to the hangar and showed me the planes they fly – C-12s. They are civilians and they fly around all day looking for IEDs. So far they've found lots and probably saved many lives. I got to sit in the pilot seat and push buttons, even though the plane was not turned on.

Fully tapping into the resource of our tai chi class, we went to see a guy who is a tai chi master, and also happens to run the helicopter simulator machines. He also has the word BEER tattooed huge on his right forearm. Our timing was right on, and he let us use the simulator to play around. It's basically an exact replica of the inside of an apache, surrounded by giant screens. The chair moves to simulate the feeling of flying, and the huge screens mimic a real windshield. There are two machines so that one person can be the pilot and the other is the copilot and gunner. It was great fun, but boy do I suck at flying helicopters. I actually made the thing do a backflip on accident and I crashed twice. I did get it going for a while, but they all agreed that I should keep my hands off the controls of all flying objects. I got to fly in there for an hour at least, and it felt like I was only in there for a few seconds. Definitely one of the coolest things I've ever done!

Read and post comments | Send to a friend

Feature Story

6 Jan

While I'm busy telling my mundane tale…the Washington Post makes what we are doing sound much more interesting. Check out this article about our program in Baghdad!

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/01/04/AR2009010401459.html

Read and post comments | Send to a friend

Not a whole lot to report…

4 Jan

Life's fairly boring here. I wake up every day at 0600 dying for the loo. I make an effort to never get up during the night since it's a long, scary walk in the dark and cold. I get dressed as fast as I can, hopping around like a maniac, then quickly walk the full five minutes to the bathroom. Then I walk another 5 minutes to the gym to do a workout for an hour. Afterward, I shower, get dressed, and walk over the the chow hall. I grab some cereal and take it to the office. I settle into my chair and check my email while I eat cereal around 0800. I help students that come in (there are lots – and I'm basically the only person here) and work on emails, paperwork, and other things until lunch. I walk over to the dfac (dining facility) around 12, usually with Dr. Berg, and sit and eat for a while. I'm trying to just eat healthy, which is a major challenge since there is SO MUCH food. It's all you can eat and they have about 10 different hot lines with all kinds of yummy fried foods, etc. They also have a dessert bar with the best cookies in the world, and 5 kinds of baskin robbins ice cream, scooped out by a very generous young man. I've been trying to frequent the salad bar, but it always looks so sad compared to hot food.

After eating too much, I say hi to Robot then head back to the office for the afternoon. More often then not, students are waiting when I return, and the afternoons are busy trying to help them. Dr. Berg's class starts at 1830, and things usually die down after that. I then surf the internet or watch TV (there is one with Armed Forces Network – AFN – inside the office, usually turned to football for the guys). Then I walk 5 mins to the bathroom, making my last stop, walk five more mininutes back to my room, read for 30 mins, and go to sleep.

Thrilling, I know. But it is productive, and it's a bit restful to not have anything to do besides work and sleep. I don't have to drive, run errands, cook, clean, and can't go anywhere, so it's just simple.

I have found a couple fun things to do in the form of classes. I've been to two tai chi classes and two spin classes. I really enjoyed the tai chi and the people in the class were really friendly. I always wanted to try tai chi, and I like it a lot more now that I found out it mean "supreme ultimate fist." Turns out some of the guys from tai chai were also in my spin class, and they also do yoga. Yoga is on the other side of camp (this base has an 16 mile perimeter) and they said they would give me a ride! So I've got a very full week of evening workout classes scheduled for this week.

I'd planned to travel around from site to site while I was here, but the need is so strong here, it looks like I'll stay for a few more days at least, which is just fine with me. I'm off to go get 10 hours of sleep! G'night!

Read and post comments | Send to a friend

What I did today…

28 Dec

I'm officially cool. And there are videos of me tearing it up out at the range, but I don't know when I'll have good enough internet to load them. For now, use your imagination…

Read and post comments | Send to a friend

Desert Christmas

26 Dec

I survived Christmas. I’m disappointed because I can’t get online and I was very much hoping I could skype with my family today. The internet stopped working in the office at some point today, and no one’s been able to fix it. I discovered a wireless internet service (called SniperHill of all morbid things) and paid $10 for it so that I could use my computer, but shortly after doing that, I lost all wireless bars and haven’t been able to get them back. I’ve carried my laptop all over base trying to find a place where it works, and so far not had any luck. I am now in my room and I keep trying to connect over and over again. I even tried holding my laptop up to the giant hole in hopes that the wireless signal might come through like Santa Claus. No luck. L

 

Today was fairly uneventful. I slept in till nine and then went to work. We had a decent amount of visitors as many told us this had been their first day off of work – ever. Dr. Berg, Danny and I ate a huge lunch at the dining facility (D-FAC), and it was great. They really went over the top and there was a ridiculous amount of food, as well as food sculptures, ice sculptures, and people in costumes. I got a picture with Rudolf, and could feel him giving me the eye for a while after that. Creeepy.

I ate ham and turkey and stuffing with yams, green beans, corn on the cob, deviled eggs, etc. Just when I thought I might explode, I ate cookies and an ice cream Sunday for dessert. Yum. I have to say, this is the best dfac I’ve ever been to, and I can see that it’s going to challenge some of my new year’s resolutions. I mean, seriously, they have four kinds of crepes every day for breakfast. It’s over the top. Your tax dollars are at work here!

 

After lunch we worked but it was relatively slow. I played Trivial Pursuit with Danny and he won, but not by much. I made up for it after dinner by neatly beating him at four games of ping-pong. Then I went to the coffee shop to see if I could get online and had no luck. Now I’m in my room getting ready to go to bed, and sadly typing this into Microsoft Word.

 

But I’m healthy, and happy, and looking forward to future years of celebrating the holidays with all those I love. You are in my heart! Merry Christmas

.

Read and post comments | Send to a friend

Written on Christmas Eve

26 Dec

I’m feeling a bit sentimental, but OK overall. Danny is here to help us set things us and that helps a lot. It’s been a morale boost for me, as well as a big help workwise. I’m honestly glad that the holidays are passing and that things are getting done. We’re running a psychology class here and we’ve been trying to promote it and get students enrolled with little to no help from anyone. I’m trying to stay positive and not focus on the negative.

 

I’m feeling listy, so here are the negatives:

  1. My room looks a lot like a Mexican prison cell. The walls are bright blue, and the whole place is filthy. There  is dirt everywhere, and a tiny metal bed in the center of the room. They gave me a thin grey wool blanket to keep warm, which helps since there is a GIANT HOLE in the ceiling. I have no idea what it’s for or where it goes, but I’ve been sleeping here for 5 days, endured one hard rain, and nothing bad has happened. I’m growing to like my Mexican prison cell. At least I don’t have to share it with anyone.
  2. The camp is desolate, and dirty. It’s a huge base in the middle of the desert, and as I walk across it, I keep recalling scenes from “The Road,” which, if you haven’t read it, is a post-apocalyptic and excessively dreary novel. I’m fairly sure I now know what it would look like if the world was destroyed and everything was covered in a fine grey ash. I also imagine it’s a lot like what the surface of the moon looks like. Yes, there are buildings and structures here, but they’re all hidden behind hescoes (giant barrels filled with dirt and wrapped in chicken wire) or T-walls (big concrete blocks). This adds a mazelike element to the camp, and makes walking a direct path fairly difficult if you don’t know where you are going. Filthy and confusing? Yes.

  3. This Christmas is different from my last 7 in a major way – I’m not spending it with anyone I love.

 

Positives:

  1. I’m coming to the end of a challenging year, and I always love New Years. It’s a chance to start fresh, and invigorated.  I have lots of New Years resolutions, and I can’t wait to dive into them. Being in an isolated place should make it fairly easy to achieve success in ways that are harder when I’m at home. Basically, the temptation to have fun doesn’t exist here. Although I have played a few very exciting games of boggle!
  2. I have a great job. I mean, really. I honestly can’t think of something I’d rather be doing than traveling and helping people go to school that never thought they would. I feel really good about our program and I love the people that I work with and for. Plus, it enables me to live in Heidelberg, which is my favorite city in the world, where I am surrounded by some of the greatest and most interesting people I have ever known. I learn something new every day.
  3. There is a Ugandan guard that works outside of the MWR building where I have to go to use the bathroom. He is really nice and always happy to see me. And, his name is ROBOT. Yes, Robot. In addition to understanding what it would be like to live on the moon, I now know what I will name my firstborn child.
  4. Iraq makes 33 countries that I have visited.
  5. Today I found a huge sign that said ENTRANCE – EMPLOYEES ONLY attached to a concrete wall that was completely impenetrable.

  6. The sinks here consistently run warm. Every time I wash my hands (which is A LOT), I am happy that the water is warm.
  7. I am really good at boggle.

 

Read and post comments | Send to a friend

JBB

19 Dec

We finally caught a flight on Wednesday afternoon. It was a C-130, and it was packed with passengers. They had red cargo net style seats lining both sides of the plane, and also running the length of the center of the plane. I was one of the unlucky ones to sit in the middle, back to back with the guy behind me, Forrest Gump style. I didn't actually realize this was the case until he leaned forward and I fell backwards. Luckily, I was so tired from being in the passenger terminal for 3 days that I slept most of the flight without even realizing it. Until the combat landing, that is.

SleepThe inside of the C-130


I woke up with a jolt when I felt the plane to a nosedive. I looked around in panic, but people mostly seemed bored, so I figured we were ok. Then the plane made a sharp turn and I was involunarily pinned against the seat (and the back of the guy behind me). I have never felt a sensation like that before in a plane. It was terrifying and exhilarating, a bit like being on a roller coaster. We continued our direct downward trajectory and were on the ground and shuffling out of the open back of the plane in no time.

After a short bus ride, we walked into the nicest passenger terminal I have seen in a long time. It was a real building, with all the amenities. Danny was waiting for us, and he drove us over to the Ed Center, which was also insanely nice. It apparently used to be one of Sadam's Air Force Academies or something like that, and it's nothing short of beautiful. Truly nicer than the Ed Centers I've worked at in Europe. Danny's got the office set up really well, and things are trucking along.

I've got my own room here, and it's just great. I can control the heat (yes, it's basically freezing here) and the bed is comfy. The bathroom is a bit of a walk, but it's imepaccably clean, and the showers are hot. Nothing to complain about here at all. Except that I have to leave tomorrow.

Read and post comments | Send to a friend

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.